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What does the first sixty minutes of your day look like?

If I’m in California, and the waves are good, I’m surfing by 7 a.m. If the surfing is good, I might stay out all day. I like being able to see the horizon. When I am sitting in the water facing Antarctica, waiting for a wave, it opens up my mind.

Yvon Chouinard · read it in full

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